The Mystery of the Sacred Scrolls

Tshering Tashi reports from Bhutan on the mysterious disappearance of unique and priceless sacred scrolls containing rare traditional song lyrics and mask dance instructions. Tshering is well-known as the co-author of 'Bold Bhutan Beckons' together with the Hon. Tim Fischer, the former Australian Deputy Prime Minister, and Ambassador to the Holy See. 

«The statue of Zahbdrung Jigme Chogyal-the patron of classical music in Bhutan. Photo: Ugyen Wangdi

Agay Dhendup is revered as the father of zhungdra or classical music.  His grandson, Zhabdrung Jigme Chogyal (1862-1903), who became the patron of this genre, is credited with its popularisation.

Unlike traditional lyricists and dance masters, Agay Dhendup took care of having his lyrics and guidelines for mask dancers written down in two separate manuscripts.  These documents were kept in Talo village in the Punakha valley.  As they were rolled, they are known as the shogdril.

The villagers of Talo consider these two scrolls sacred and a treasure of the village.  For a long time, the villagers looked after the 100-year old manuscripts.  These two documents may be the only of its kind and today they are missing.

History

Like many treasures in the country, the scrolls have also been kept out of the general public view, but many elders of Talo admit to seeing it.  One of them is Ap Dopay (80), the premier zhungdra expert.

According to him traditionally the Tse-poem, or lead female singer, had the responsibility of looking after these two sacred documents.

Since the lead singer was from his family, they looked after these historical documents for many years, in accordance with the tradition; while the ownership always rested with the monastery.

Few years ago, breaking from tradition, the custody of the scrolls was reverted to the monastery. Although it was registered as a property of the monastery, Ap Dopay now fears that these documents may no longer be there.

The Scrolls

When the manuscripts were in his family’s possession Ap Dopay, 80, said he tried to study it, but found it hard to decipher the script, as it was written in Umi or classical Tibetan text.

Both manuscripts were written on daphne paper using traditional ink.  The scrolls are rolled and placed in bamboo for safekeeping.

Like other elders in the village, Ap Dopay believes that Agay Dhendup did not personally write the lyrics or the guidelines.  They believe that he dictated it to his clerk.

Who was Agay?

Agay or grandfather Dhendup was the maternal grandfather of the mind reincarnation of the Zhabdrung.

He was a lyricist for most of the Bhutanese classic songs.  He also composed several mask dances that are still performed exclusively by Talops and only in Talo.  He lived in Talo monastery, which was the seat of his grandson.

 The Patron

Zhabdrung died when he was 41 but, during his short life, managed to propagate his grandfather’s songs and dances. “I won’t live long but the zhungdras will carry on my legacy,” Ap Dopay shared a quote of Zhabdrung.

There are oral stories in Talo of how Zhabdrung Chogyal in his Sung Chenm or last word, instructed his younger brother Mepham Kuenga Dra to perform the dances composed by their grandfather every year during the festival of Talo.

In the small circle of zhungdra lovers, the mind reincarnate is credited for strengthening the foundations of classical music laid down by his grandfather Agay Dhendup.

The Mystery

When asked about the whereabouts of the scrolls, Ap Dopay confidently said it is somewhere in the village, but definitely not in the monastery, where it should be. “The custodian will only step forward, if the government announces some incentive,” he said.

He said that, about 10 years ago, one of the villagers brought one of the scrolls of Agay Dhendup to him in Thimphu.  It was in bad shape with many holes in it.  The villager felt that he was in a position to help repair it.

The scroll was the one with the guidelines for mask dancers.  Ap Dopay said, with the help of a Dzongkha expert, they managed to decipher part of it, which was about the entitlements of the dancers.

He was surprised with the amount of details and thought gone into preparing such a document.  For example, the scrolls mentions the atsara or clown be given x number of pork fat slices, and x amount of rice.

Ap Dopay tried to get help to conserve it but got sick before he could.  When he consulted his astrologer, it was pointed out that the source of his sickness was the old document.

Adhering to the astrologer’s advice, Ap Dopay, whose situation was worsening, and fearing dire consequences, immediately sent the scroll back to Talo village.

Zhungdra

Following the will of the patron of the classical music, Agay Dhendup’s songs and dances are performed every year during the annual festival of Talo.  People, who have witnessed it, say it is the finest of the genre.

The Talops have become custodians of these songs and dances.  Generations have been performing these compositions and yet struggle to perfect it and find it hard to comprehend its depth.

Ap Dopay has been supervising these dances for as long as he can remember.  He has taken personal responsibility to orchestrate them, and ensure that no external influence or alteration is made to these dances.

It is apparent that the shogdrils are not only the treasure of Talo but also a national treasure.  Collective effort must be made to locate these two important manuscripts before it is too late.

Contributed by 

Tshering Tashi 

The Hon. Tim Fischer and Tshering Tashi co-authors of 'Bold Bhutan Beckons'. Picture: JOHN RUSSELL